WELP so now my mom knows everything on accident.
And that actually was a (long) conversation that really needed to happen.
She’s okay with me seeing a therapist, and can understand a lot of what’s going on. She doesn’t want to be pushy or judgemental, despite her own biases-
She’s just sad I didn’t come to her first. This is fucking huge to me, and why I hid that I went to therapy for years.She didn’t even give that much of a shit that I liked girls?! I’m JUST-
She’s proud of me for finishing college – even though at first she didn’t know why I did art instead of writing or history or something, she came to appreciate what I did. I cried at this lol.
She said I bring energy into a room when I visit it, that people like being around me, and I like being around them. It really does make me happy.
She reminded me that I’ve been blessed with a lot of gifts in life, and told me to do what I’m here to do, and to not forget that.
I’m only 25, and I’ve got plenty of time. I’m not a failure yet.
She said that sometimes we need to make our own mistakes, and that’s okay.
The stubbornness runs in my family, but I’ve used it for good.
And I know I can use it for that again.
So my historical costuming resources list from 2011 was less than a page long- I’m not saying that I’ve learned a lot in the past three years, but this list is now sitting pretty at a solid nine pages. Whew. And people wonder why I want to redo this damn series.
This list is by no means an exhaustive one- it’s a list of (primarily western) historical fashion resources, both online and offline, that is limited to what I know, own, or use! It’s a work in progress, and I’m definitely hoping to expand on it as my knowledge base grows. First things first, how about a little:
ADVICE FOR RESEARCHING HISTORICAL FASHION
- Read, and read about more than just costuming. Allowing yourself to understand the cultural and historical context surrounding the clothing of a particular region/period can be invaluable in sussing out good costume design. Looking at pictures is all well and good, but reading about societal pressures, about construction techniques, daily routines, local symbolism, whatever else will really help you understand the rhyme and reason behind costuming from any given context.
- Expand your costume vocabulary. When you’re delving into a new topic, costuming or otherwise, picking up new terminology is essential to proper understanding and furthering your research. Write down or take note of terms as you come across them- google them, look up synonyms, and use those words as a jumping off point for more research. What’s a wire rebato? How does it differ from a supportasse? Inquiring minds want to know.
- Double-check your sources. Especially on the internet, and double especially on tumblr. I love it, but it’s ground zero for rapidly spreading misinformation. Books are usually your safest bet, but also take into account their date of publication, who’s writing them- an author’s biases can severely mangle their original source material.
- Don’t be afraid to ask for help. Do everything you can to find out information on your own, but feel free to reach out to people with more specialized areas of knowledge for help! Be considerate about it- the people you’re asking are busy as well- but a specific line of questioning that proves you’re passionate and that you respect their subject matter expertise can work wonders.
Okay, onto the links!
It’s impossible to overstate the importance of getting off the internet and looking into books! God bless the internet, but books are (generally, this isn’t a rule) better-researched and better-sourced. Bibliographies also mean each individual books can be a jumping off point for further research, which is always a fantastic thing.
Remember- owning books is awesome and you should absolutely assemble your own library of resources, but LIBRARIES. Libraries. You’ll be surprised to find what books are available to you at your local library.
GENERAL / SURVEYS
- British Costume from Earliest Times to 1820
Fine book with lots of first hand sources, but be wary of the photography in the book- reproduction costumes and thus somewhat less reliable. Though hilarious.
- Corsets and Crinolines
Norah Waugh’s invaluable survey of corsetry and corset patterns- used the world ‘round by modern corsetieres.
- Costume in Detail: Women’s Dress 1730-1930
Elaborate line drawings/diagrams of extant period garments! A fantastic survey.
- Cut of Men’s Clothes
PDF available online! Patterns for men’s period garments.
- Cut of Women’s Clothes
Patterns for women’s period garments.
- Greenwood Encyclopedia of Clothing Through World History
This is a library find, unless you have a pretty three hundred bucks lying around- a great, general resource.
- A History of Costume
A lot of good text and info, to be taken with a grain of salt. Be wary of any reconstructions and or “supposed” patterns that aren’t directly based on extant garments or firsthand accounts.
- Fashion (Taschen 25th Anniversary)
A survey of the Kyoto Costume Institute’s fashion collection- broad but beautiful. On every fashion student’s bookcase.
- Fashion: The Definitive History of Costume and Style
Great overview of fashion history from the Smithsonian and DK publishing.
- The History of Costume: From the Ancient Mesopotamians Through the Twentieth Century
Broad costume survey, second edition.
- What People Wore: 1,800 Illustrations from Ancient Times to the Early Twentieth Century
this is one of those “I am putting this here because I used it a ton when I was younger” but man, mixed bag. Really cool survey to browse through, but also work that is a copy-of-a-copy-of-a-copy in most instances and thus not necessarily trustworthy as a resource.
- What People Wore When: A Complete Illustrated History of Costume from Ancient Times to the Nineteenth Century for Every Level of Society
A collection of Racinet and Hottentoth’s costume plates from the 19th century. A beautiful survey but, since these are later illustrations, to be taken with a grain of salt.
Patterns fo Fashion books
Detailed, hand-drawn diagrams of historical fashion, inside and out. Pretty amazing stuff.
- Patterns of Fashion: The Cut and Construction of Clothes for Men and Women, C.1560-1620
- Patterns of Fashion 1: Englishwomen’s Dresses & Their Construction C. 1660-1860
- Patterns of Fashion 2: Englishwomen’s Dresses & Their Construction C. 1860-1940
- Patterns of Fashion 4: The Cut and Construction of Linen Shirts, Smocks, Neckwear, Headwear and Accessories for Men and Women C. 1540-1660
Fashion in Detail books
Not what you want if you’re looking for photos of entire costumes- note the “in detail” bit up there. Just a beautiful series, and great reference for all the little things you might miss otherwise. The V&A has an amazing fashion collection, and it’s great to see them share it with the world.
- Nineteenth Century Fashion in Detail
- Seventeenth and Eighteenth-Century Fashion in Detail
- Underwear: Fashion in Detail
- World Dress: Fashion in Detail
The one non-western entry in the series.
- Fashioning Fashion: European Dress in Detail, 1700 - 1915
LACMA’s response to the V&A’s series mentioned above, also an invaluable resource for historical fashion detail.
- Get my driver’s license, get a car.
- Look into alternative living solutions to my current apartment- either something cheaper that allows me to save money, or, budget providing, nicer accommodations.
end goal of saving up money? Being able to buy a home.
If I don’t end up moving? Finally hang those damn pictures on the wall.
- Finally get to a place where I can take care of a pet
- Practice more of my religion at home- I’ll have to with my new hours, and I want to keep studying and exploring
- Be more physically active
- Finish your obligations to others
- Pick one direction of my artistic skill set, and push it hard. Instead of dabbling in a little in everything, push towards one end goal, even if it’s not going to be what I do forever and all of time.
- Take more artistic risks – be more honest
Bolded is probably what’s most important right now, so what I’m actively working on. The others are in the back of my mind. The apartment situation, I’ll sort that out when I have a better idea of my budget plus a car, and plus this job.
Lol I should cross stuff off as I achieve it. Because fuck yes I’m going to try my damnedest.
Because if I don’t finish number one in the next month or two I’m gonna cry.
I AM CAUGHT UP WITH ATTACK ON TITAN. FINALLY. hahahaha
I CAN’T EVEN WITH THE GORE AND THE ANIMATION AND THE AWESOME. 10/10 WOULD WATCH AGAIN.
Never seemed to lag, gorgeous, brutal, and masterfully sidesteps around the ‘young hero’ tropes when it needs to, and takes them on full on when it needs that. Eren is treated like a threat for what he can do, is encouraged to let others more experienced take the lead, etc., vs. ‘OH YOU ARE HUMANITY’S LAST HOPE, LET’S JUST BLINDLY TRUST A TEENAGER WITH THIS.’ Not every character reacts 100% realistically all the time, but a lot of them do, and this pitches you headlong into a world of dire circumstances, where not everyone’s a hero. With a focus on teamwork, relationships, trust, war, death, primal instincts, fear, motivations, and political intrigue, it’s something really refreshing to watch.
I know I’m speaking to the choir here but just sharing my thoughts because HHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH (and also I know a few of y’all who follow me haven’t seen it yet.)
You know, whether it’s grappling hooks or sewing machine attachments, I’m both amazed and proud of what humanity is capable of, and how we can problem solve to make things possible. The fact that I’m typing this to anyone and you can read it right now is a miracle. Humanity is awesome sometimes.